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2002 T/A 4 wheel Disc brakes on a 68 Firebird
Coming soon!
The S10 brakes will bolt up and should clear 15" Rally wheels. A Pontiac axle will need shims made to make up for the thickness of the backing plate. Otherwise the bearing will float around approx. 9/16" in and out. C-clip axles don't need any shims. Only concerns are welding tabs on the axle to retain the rubber lines, cutting and re-flaring the old lines to mate with the rubber lines, and getting E-brake cables fabricated to work with the car. The nice thing is the bracket for the E-brake is incorporated into the backing plate! Makes for an easier swap.
The S10 setup is an 11.5" rotor and a single piston aluminum PBR caliper. The E-brake is internal drum style.
The 98-2002 Fbody setup is similar but the rotor is 12" The same considerations are needed as above. Also will need to fabricate the E-brake bracket for this one. The setup needs a small spacer (1/8" or so) to move the inner wheel face away from the caliper to allow full movement when using a stock wheel.
The S10 setup is more deeply recessed on the axle and won't need a spacer. Look at eBay, sometimes they come up there and you can see what I'm talking about.
The 93-97 Fbody setup is a lever-type internal E-brake, but the calipers are aluminum PBR's and the disc is 11.5" They fit 15" wheels too. Shims needed bor NON C-clip rear
89-92 are aluminum internal lever and 11" rotors. Shims needed for NON C-clip rear
82-88 are cast iron internal lever very similar to 79-81 but are smaller and use a low drag piston design. The rotor is 10.5" and the whole setup will fit a 14" stock steel wheel. Shims needed for NON C-clip rear
79-81 cast iron, internal lever, 11" rotor. Shims needed for NON C-clip rear
The only one that will work easily with staggered shocks on a First or second gen Firebird is the 79-81 configuration. The others will need 2 driver side or 2 passenger side assemblies as they are not staggered. If your shocks are moved inboard there is no problem.
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If I was working on an A-body and wanted to retain original 14" rims I'd look into mid 80's G-body brakes and spindles.
With the proper adapter balljoints and tie rods you should be able to bolt in the tall spindle of a G-body since the spindle is essentially the same as the Tall spindle on a 12" rotor conversion with B-body parts, but with a shallower mounted caliper.
The G-body STANDARD discs use a rotor about 10.5" and would be the best chance of fitting in a 14" rim. Worst case you will need 14" rims made for disc brakes, which are out there.
Still need to check for caliper to rim face clearance but it would be a good chance. The knuckles and brakes are dime-a-dozen in the salvage industry and can be had cheeeaap. This also allows you to have discs that you can maintain with parts from ANY parts store.
You could go a step further and get the rear discs off of an 82-86 F-body, and bolt them on the rear. They fit in a 14" rim too. Then buy a cast iron 4 wheel disc master cylinder for the 79 WS6 TA. Bolt a combo valve from the same into the car and you have a done package behind stock rims.
With this setup you have the improved suspension geometry and brakes all in one move. I have not done the swap but the impression I get is that people have completed it with no need for the tubular arms.
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